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Natural Dyes on Silk-Viscose blend Threads

Natural Dyes on Silk-Viscose blend Threads

Recently, one of our karigars (embroidery artisans) brought up something that got me thinking. They said, “Madam, the threads we currently work with are dull.” It was a comment that came during our latest project, where we’ve been developing new artwork for textiles.

The piece called for striking, contrasting color combinations, and our usual cotton embroidery threads weren’t delivering the boldness we were aiming for.

We’ve been using cotton embroidery threads for over two years now. Cotton has been a staple in our work for many reasons—it’s natural, works well with the dyeing techniques we love, and has a beautiful, earthy quality.

We developed this sample inspired from the artwork I made. However, cotton’s muted colours, especially with natural dyes, can feel limiting when you need more vibrancy. That got me thinking about how even the artisans who work with these materials daily need new textures, colors, and finishes to stay inspired and creative. I realized that innovation often comes from a need for change, and this was one of those moments.

Why Cotton Threads Feel Limiting
Cotton has its strengths, especially in how it responds to natural dyes. The tones are soft, earthy, and grounded, which works for many projects. But when it comes to high-contrast, vibrant designs, cotton threads can’t achieve the same level of brightness or sheen that we sometimes need. Cotton threads, by nature, tend to absorb dyes in a way that results in deeper shades, but they never quite “shine.” It’s a muted elegance, and while that’s often beautiful, there are moments when I crave more vibrancy, more pop.

Exploring New Possibilities

The comment from our karigar was a cue for me to explore new materials—something shinier, brighter, and more dynamic. So, I started thinking about alternatives to cotton that could bring a fresh energy to our work.

Silk Threads
Silk immediately came to mind. Silk threads are known for their incredible sheen and smoothness, which could provide the richness and lustre that we’re missing with cotton. Not only do they hold vibrant colors better, but silk also adds a luxurious touch to any piece. The only downside is that silk can be expensive and trickier to work with, especially if you’re used to cotton’s sturdiness.

Blending Cotton with Other Materials for Embroidery
Of course, I’m not ready to completely move away from cotton. It's matted, natural beauty still has a special place in our designs. But what if we blended cotton with shinier threads like silk or metallic accents? This way, we could maintain that earthy, grounded aesthetic while introducing pops of brightness and sheen. I think blending materials could be a great way to keep the essence of what we love about cotton, while pushing the boundaries creatively.

Involving the Karigars
The artisans we work with are a vital part of this process, and their input is invaluable. Their feedback has sparked this shift in my thinking, and I want to involve them in exploring these new threads. After all, they are the ones who know these materials intimately, working with them daily. Their expertise will help us find the perfect balance between vibrancy, durability, and ease of use.

Taking it Step by Step
Change doesn’t have to happen all at once. We can start introducing new materials slowly, testing them out in small projects before fully integrating them into our designs. This way, we can assess how the new threads work with our existing techniques and designs. It’s an exciting process, and I’m looking forward to seeing how these small changes evolve into something new and vibrant for the brand.

New Experiments!

The other day, we received some new spools of threads at the studio that were supposed to be pure silk—at least, that’s what we thought. As we started working with them, something about the way they reacted to the natural dye didn’t quite sit right. That’s when we realised they weren’t pure silk at all, but a blend of silk and viscose through burn test.

One of the beautiful things about working with natural dyes is how they reveal the true nature of a material. When dyeing, the slightest difference in fiber composition shows up in the way colors are absorbed, and it quickly became clear that we were working with a mix. Silk and viscose react differently to natural dyes, and this subtle shift in the way the threads took on color helped us figure it out. It was actually a bit exciting—I love when materials reveal their own stories through our process.

Understanding Viscose
After the initial surprise, we weren’t too bothered by the viscose-silk blend. Viscose, after all, is a filament fiber made from industrial and agricultural waste, so it’s in line with our ethos of sustainability and using resources thoughtfully. We don’t mind using it at all—on the contrary, it’s a material that aligns with our focus on minimising waste and finding new life in what might otherwise be discarded. The mordanting that we did was also the one we use for cellulosic materials.

The Dyeing Process Begins
So, with that settled, we began the process of dyeing these silk-viscose threads in the studio. We made some skeins first so the dyeing becomes easy.

I wish I had taken photos of that first batch, but it all happened so quickly that I didn’t have a chance. The threads moved through the dye bath beautifully, and when we pulled them out to dry, the results were stunning. The way the natural dyes interacted with the two fibers created this soft variation in color that was subtle yet striking. It’s one of those moments when the materials surprise you in the best possible way.

Rethinking Our Dyeing Process
Since we work exclusively with natural dyes, I’ve also been thinking about how dyeing techniques affect the vibrancy of our threads. Natural dyes often result in softer, more muted tones, especially on cotton. If we need bolder shades, we might consider experimenting with over-dyeing or double-dyeing threads for a deeper, richer color.


The First Results
I was thrilled with the outcome. The silk threads took on a rich, lustrous color, while the viscose threads, being more absorbent, developed a softer, more matte tone. The interplay between the two materials added depth and texture to the threads. It was where the unpredictability of natural dyes worked in our favour, and the threads felt vibrant and alive in a way I hadn’t anticipated.



Next time, I’ll be sure to capture the entire process with photos. I’m excited to see how these threads evolve with different dye baths, and I can’t wait to experiment further. Each step teaches us something new about the materials we work with, and this discovery of the silk-viscose blend feels like a new chapter in our journey with natural dyes!

#nofearonlyflowers 

HeenaAgrima

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